Friday, May 22, 2015

Project Run and Play: May

Another month, another Project Run and Play challenge! We've had so much rain all week long, I had to settle for indoor photos today.
This month's remix is the the Summer Chevron shirt. It's a great free pattern from Crafty Cupboard. It reminded me a lot of the above Persnickey photo I pinned (literally! I'm talkin' old school pinterest) on my inspiration board in my craft room. (The outfit is no longer available from Persnickety- it's like two years old).  I have wanted to recreate this look for a long time, and this pattern was PERFECT for it.
I had this great green print I got from the same fabulous estate sale I keep mentioning. I have no idea what type of fabric it is, but it is soft and has a great drape (and also frays like crazy). I knew it would be great for this look.  The beautiful blue vintage buttons also came from the same estate sale. Then I had some white muslin that I have yards and yards of. You always need lots of white muslin right?
So let's talk about how I remixed this pattern. I started with the size 3. I trued up the corners on the neckline so it would hang nicely and be a little less square, then I added 3 inches to the skirt width for a nice gather, then I lengthened it by several inches to make it a dress. Then I turned the bodice around so the buttons would be in the front. I altered the closure slightly so I could have an overlapping button placket to be like the persnickety dress.
Then of course I NEEDED those ruffle shorts that almost look like a petticoat. I drafted the shorts by adding a few inches in width and waistband to my basic shorts sloper. Then I added two ruffles. ADORABLE. I am in love.
Do you notice anything fancy about the finishing on the ruffles and the flutter sleeve? That's a ROLLED HEM!! I have owned my serger for TWO years and I finally was brave enough to do a rolled hem. Let me tell you, it is so EASY! I was terrified about removing my stitch finger on the serger, but it's really easy to take on and off. I am going to do rolled hems a lot now that I know how to do this! I watched this super helpful video from CKC and read this blog post from LBG and that's it. They each suggest different settings and I experimented and ended up using a combo of their suggestions. I used a 5 for my right needle, 5.5 for upper looper, 7 for the lower looper, 1 for the differential feed, R for stitch length, and R for stitch width.
Seriously, those ruffles would have taken forever to hem. Instead I just ran them through the serger so quick! and I loooooove how pretty the rolled hem looks!
Does that blue stripe bother anyone else? I didn't pay attention to the fabric and just gathered and sewed it, and it happened to end up just askew to the blue buttons. Hmph.
Anyone spot the green lego? Can you tell I pushed aside a huge pile of legos to take these pictures?
Don't let Miss sassy pants trick you into thinking she's being sweet here. She's thinking about her Twilight Sparkle My Little Pony carriage she's going to buy with the dollar I bribed her with to let me take these photos interrupting her lego-crushing monster-free time (aka Jacob's nap time).

Check out all the other Project Run and Play entries here

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Spruce Shorts for Fluffy Bums: Free Pattern Add-on

I was surprised by how many of my pattern testers use cloth diapers. About half! They asked me for suggestions on how to adjust the spruce shorts for fluffy bums (an affectionate term for cloth diaper babies) Should we add 1" to the height? Should we sew a size larger? Well, the true answer is that they need a different shaped back piece to allow for the extra bulk. So they convinced me that I needed an add-on pattern piece for the pattern. (you can find the free download here)
This is what the difference of original back piece (blue) and the fluffy bum back piece (gray). So you see there is a longer back rise and extra width. 
These were NOT tested with the usual care I give my other patterns. I am not a cloth diaper expert, plus there is SO much variation in cloth diapers. It depends on what brand you use, how many inserts you use, and the shape of your child. For some, you might not even need the extra piece, the original pattern may work just fine for you. The above photo shows the regular Spruce Shorts with cloth diaper on.
This mommy called this diaper her "huge nappy" (it's a baby beehinds diaper if you were curious) and you can tell the regular pattern would never get over that adorable diaper! I hope this is helpful to cloth diaper mommas! You can download the free pattern add-on from my Craftsy shop here